![]() It’s critical to keep the angle of the thread path as flat as possible as it approaches both leases. However, it may be necessary (and is a good idea generally) to use a fourth peg–read about the angle of the path, below. You need two pegs to make a lease and, ideally, they are not involved with the end peg–that equals 3 pegs. I recommend that you have 4 pegs for each lease. If you warp your loom from back-to-front you need two leases‹-front-to-back warping uses just one.Whether you make one lease or two, it’s more efficient to use the pegs sequentially, up to the length you need, like in Figure D rather than randomly. Any arrangement can be made as long as all the warp threads measure out equally along the length of the guide string and there are pegs for the leases at each end. ( I talk about this more in my how to use a warping board post.Establishing the path is a simple matter of carrying the guide string back and forth to measure out your warp’s length. If you have a long warp, then you can split up your warp into smaller sections to make sure you can get up and move between sections. ![]() This requires you to find a time where you will not be interrupted because you can not drop the cross. You can split up your entire warping process into different segments.įor example, if you are warping from the front of your loom (my preferred method) then you will need to hold onto your cross the entire time you are sleighing your reed. Measure your warp when you get the chance and then set it aside until you have time to move on! If you can only dedicate small amounts of time to your weaving then this is a great way to do it. Having your measuring and warping in two separate steps is not necessarily a bad thing! You have to measure out your yarn and then put it on your loom. Overall, indirect warping takes longer to do. Since it wraps around and around the mill or the pegs on the board you can get a lot of warp into a small space. You do not need 15 feet of open space for 15 feet of warp! Using a warping board or mill is great for when your warp is very long. how much space you have for storing your weaving tools. Think about how much space you have for warping vs. Warping boards take up less space than warping mills, but they take up a lot more space than warping pegs. This makes it a smooth process that is fun to do (subjectively speaking of course.) Each side of your warping mill will also be a half yard which makes measuring out your warp yarn easy without having to use a guide yarn. The biggest difference between the two types of indirect warping tools is that the warping mill turns as you measure your warp. You can learn how to use a warping board here. They are both tools that you can use to measure out all of your warp yarns to the exact length that you need for your weaving. Warping boards and warping mills do the exact same thing but in slightly different ways. This is simpler than taking out the measuring tape since most sewing measuring tapes only go to 5 feet. ![]() Weaving Tip: Since I usually use my rigid heddle loom to weave scarves, I keep an 8-foot-long measure yarn handy to always be able to easily set up my direct warping. So if for example, your warp is 8 feet long then you will have to place your peg and the back apron rod 8 feet apart. Your peg will be placed your warp’s distance away from the back apron rod of your loom. When you are direct warping the front of your loom is facing the warping peg. This is because you will be measuring out your warp directly onto your loom instead of on an intermediate device such as a warping board or warping mill. The longer your warp, the more space you need. So let’s talk about how the direct method works.įirst: this warping method requires the use of a warping peg and a lot of space. That takes some of the simplicity out of the entire system. The simplicity of the rigid heddle loom lends itself really well to a simpler warping method! You can direct warp onto a floor loom, but there are a lot more “obstacles” involved in warping a floor loom. Direct warping is a warping method that is mostly associated with rigid heddle weaving and allows you to measure your warp and put it on your loom at the same time.
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